How to Rebuild a Yamaha Grizzly 700 Clutch
Having problems with the clutch on your Yamaha ATV? If your drive belt is new but you still have no forward motion on your machine, it could be a problem with the drive clutch.
Watch the video above and follow the steps below to rebuild the drive clutch on a Yamaha YFM700 Grizzly.
Tools and Parts – Yamaha Grizzly 700 Clutch Rebuild
NOTE: The full list of parts needed for a Yamaha YFM700 clutch rebuild can be found here. Use our 2007 Yamaha Grizzly clutch diagram and 2016 Yamaha Grizzly clutch diagram for reference, as there’s a slight change between the parts you might have on your 2007 Yamaha Grizzly YFM700 and the updated Yamaha parts needed to complete this job.
Yamaha Grizzly 700 Drive Clutch Rebuild
Step 1. Remove the footrest cover, and the upper seat and side panels from your machine to access the drive clutch cover.
Step 2. Remove the 10mm bolts that hold the drive clutch cover in place, then loosen up the nearby brake cable if you need more room to pull the cover off.
Step 3. Remove the bearing carrier from the front of the primary sheave.
Step 4. Torque in two 10mm bolts with a 6mm thread to open the secondary sheave up and allow you to get the drive belt off.
Step 5. Remove the drive belt (or V-belt) by pulling it out from the secondary sheave first.
Step 6. Remove the 22mm bolt, the nut and the washer that holds the primary sheave in place and pull out the entire primary sheave assembly, including the center section and inner primary sheave.
Step 7. Remove the 22mm nut from the secondary sheave, then pull the sheave out.
Step 8. Detach the breather hose above the rear sheave cover, then remove the 10mm bolts that hold it in place before pulling it off the machine.
PRO TIP: Draining the oil from your machine is recommended if you don’t have any forward motion despite your belts being in good shape, or if the output oil seal on the clutch housing leaks.
Step 9. Remove the 8mm bolts that hold the clutch housing in place, then pull the clutch housing off the machine, being careful not to push in on it too hard when removing it.
Step 10. Use a clutch holder tool to hold the clutch in place. Unscrew the nut that holds down the clutch clockwise to loosen it up, then remove the clutch assembly.
Step 11. Inspect the one-way bearing in the clutch housing to see if it spins the clutch assembly freely clockwise, but catches when you spin it counterclockwise, which indicates that the bearing is in good shape.
Step 12. Pull the centrifugal clutch and the clutch carrier apart, and check how much surface area you have left on the shoes of the clutch. If they’re flattened out on the leading edge, it’s an indication that the clutch assembly needs to be replaced.
Step 13. Inspect the clutch carrier hub around the inner edges to check for grooves, which are an indicator that the clutch is wearing it down by cutting into it. Also inspect the front bearing by spinning it to make sure it’s in good shape.
Step 14. If the output shaft on your clutch housing has a leak on it, remove it and replace it.
Step 16. Drive in the needle bearing that goes into the output shaft of the clutch housing using a soft blow hammer and a handle to get it in flush.
Step 17. Dip the clutch plate in 10W-40 oil and let it soak for an hour or two.
Step 18. Put in a new circlip to hold the bearing in place within the bearing housing.
Step 19. Grease up the new oil seal with a light coat and put it in place over the bearing. Use a soft blow hammer to get it flush with the outside edge of the bearing carrier.
Step 20. Bring the clutch assembly back onto the machine, followed by the retaining bolt and a new lock nut.
Step 21. Put the clutch holder onto the clutch assembly to hold it down while you torque the lock nut counterclockwise to 140 foot-pounds.
Step 22. Replace the old gasket with a new gasket, and make sure the dowels are still in place.
Step 23. Replace the clutch housing with the new one-way bearing and washer in place. Rotate the shaft counterclockwise to see if it moves, then rotate it clockwise to see if it lock ups. Replace the bolts and torque them to 7 foot-pounds.
Step 24. Replace the back sheave housing and reattach it to the breather hose. Torque the sheave cover housing bolts to 7 foot-pounds.
Step 25. Add a coat of grease to the shaft of the secondary sheave before reinstalling it, making sure the splines line up before putting the lock nut back on.
Step 26. Add a coat of grease to the shaft of the primary sheave before reinstalling the back half, the center section and the outer half of the primary sheave, followed by its washer and its outer bolt.
Step 27. Use a sheave holder and a pry bar to hold the outer section of the primary sheave in place. Torque the primary sheave bolt to 100 foot-pounds.
Step 28. Remove the sheave holder to get the V-belt back on, making sure the arrows on the belt are pointing toward the front of the ATV. Adjust the V-belt over the secondary sheave first, then roll the primary sheave until the belt adjusts into place.
Step 29. Release the two tension bolts used earlier to open up the secondary sheave when you were taking the drive belt off.
Step 30. Place the sheave holder onto the primary sheave, and hold it still with a pry bar to torque the lock nut on the secondary sheave to 72 foot-pounds.
Step 31. Remove the sheave holder, fire up the machine and let it run so that the sheaves will move the belt into place.
Step 32. Add a little bit of grease onto the primary shaft and the inside of the bearing carrier, then reinstall it, ensuring the two dowels that were on it are still either in the bearing carrier or on the machine, and then torqueing its bolts to 7 foot-pounds.
Step 33. Replace the clutch cover, making sure the gasket seal is still in place, and tighten its bolts back in.
If you loosened up the brake line earlier for easier access to remove the clutch cover, make sure to tighten it back up, then replace the plastics, including the footrest cover. Once all the plastic covers are back in place, don’t forget to refill the oil.