Partzilla Live Q&A with John Talley – December 17, 2021
John Talley is back for another edition of Partzilla Live Q&A, answering your motorcycle and ATV repair questions.
After celebrating YouTube subscriber and viewership milestones, electrical problems, specifically ignition problems, came up several times during this edition. Check out some excerpts from Partzilla’s latest live Q&A session below, and tune into our YouTube and Facebook channels every Friday at 3pm Eastern for the next edition.
Partzilla Live Q&A Highlights – ATV/UTV Ignition Problems
I have a 2006 Rancher ES and the push start button doesn’t start. The battery is good but the headlights won’t come on either. Where do I start?
John Talley: It’s going to be really simple. Take a look at our Honda Rancher  playlist, where I walk through a no-start scenario on that particular unit. I believe I go through testing the start/stop switch or the on/off switch, which is basically the kill switch or run switch, and make sure it’s not something simple like that. I mean, you’re not the only person that’s been caught by that one before, but look for the easy stuff first.
I have a Grizzly 700 with a new starter, battery and solenoid. The stator was replaced last year by the dealer, but after 30 minutes, I tried to shut it off and it acted like it was trying to start. It ultimately shut off because the battery was dead. What do you think?
John Talley: It sounds like your regulator-rectifier is at fault. You said it was like it was trying to start, so I assume that you were hitting the button and it was trying to crank over slowly because it had a dead battery. Well it sounds like maybe they shouldn’t have replaced the stator or they should’ve done the regulator rectifier. Nine times out of 10, that’s what it’s going to be. … I know that we did a no-charge condition on our Grizzly 700, so find the playlist for our 700 and it will be in there.
I replaced the stator on a 2012 Polaris Ranger 4x4 and did the AC test on the stator while running like your videos have shown. It shows 9.8 volts on all phases. Do different machine stators put out less AC volts while running?
John Talley: You’re going to see a pretty wide range, but 9.8 volts if you’re doing it in AC is way too low. Because on an alternating current cycle, to actually develop a 12-volt DC charge, you would need at least 24 volts. There’s just no way because they have to rectify it and then flatten it out, so to speak. So when you’ve got plus and minus going, they flip it up and cut it in half like it’s almost flat, then they use a capacitor of some type to get a steady state of DC voltage, so 9 is way too low. That would give you less than 5 volts of DC charge.
Want to see more live repair questions answered? See all of Partzilla’s Live Q&A sessions here.