Partzilla Live Q&A with John Talley – August 27, 2021
Partzilla Live Q&A returns with John Talley answering your motorcycle and ATV repair questions.
Honda ATV repair questions and answers once again were a popular topic of discussion in this latest edition. Check out some excerpts from Partzilla’s latest live Q&A session below, and tune into our YouTube and Facebook channels every Friday at 3pm Eastern for the next edition.
Partzilla Live Q&A Highlights – Honda ATV Repair
I have a 98 Honda 300 EX and if I go down a tooth on the front sprocket, will I get power on top end or off the line?
John Talley: Alright, let me think about this for a second. If you go down a tooth, that’s going to give you more top end speed and it’s going to be less off the line. And if you’re trying to get more off the line, you want to go one tooth up on your front sprocket or the other direction on the back, so they kind of work in opposite direction of each other. But if you go down one tooth you’re going to increase your top end.
Garrett Sifford: [off camera] Down one tooth in the front is the bottom and you’ll get more acceleration. If you go up in the rear that’ll increase your bottom end.
John Talley: Yeah, you’re correct. I was thinking about it in reverse. Garrett saving me from myself today kids! So the answer to your question is yes, if you drop down a tooth you’re going to get better off the line and the opposite if you add or delete a tooth in the back.
My Honda FourTrax 350 ES makes a ticking sound. What could it be?
John Talley: More than likely it’s just a valve adjustment that needs to happen on it. I’m fairly certain we did that on our orange Honda Rancher when we did a top end. We did a valve adjustment video on it or it was part of the top end series itself. So if you would, go check that unit’s playlist and just read through how to do it. It’s not that tough. I remember it’s either eight thousandths on the intake and ten on the output, but I give the specs for it in the videos so you can adjust it out.
I just changed my clutch on my 2006 TRX 400EX with a new cable but when I start it, it jumps and it feels like the clutch cable doesn’t disengage the clutch. Any thoughts?
John Talley: It sounds like that’s what’s happening when you reinstalled it. I mean, you’re going to have the coarse setting, which is where it attaches down at the engine cases, and then you do your fine adjustment of the handlebar. Be sure you’ve got that set correctly because you want to zero your handlebar one, then adjust the coarse down on those two locking nuts down on the engine cases, and then bring it in from up top. So I’m wondering if you’ve got that set right. I think we did an adjustment on our 400 EX. I’d adjust my clutch.
I have a 2005 TRX500. The carb has been rebuilt and cleaned multiple times. It runs great but I can’t stop gas from pouring out of the overflow after stopping. I tried 2 different needles and cleaned the seat with a cotton swab. Any suggestions?
John Talley: You’ve nailed it. Your float bowl is sitting there with the needle and it goes up inside of that port and when it brings it up, that cuts it off. Now I’ve seen different models where of course, you can replace the little needle valve, but on some machines you can’t replace the seat. And what’ll happen is that seat will get corroded. Even though you’ve cleaned it with a cotton swab you may not be able to see that it’s corroded and letting the fuel get around it. Now unfortunately if it’s not replaceable, and you’ll know that because if the seat has a little screw on the side of it, you’re just even with the head of it. You just take that out and drop the seat out. Now if yours is pressed in there, that’s going to mean a new carb. I hate to be the one to break that to you but I’m pretty sure that’s the case.
Want to see more live repair questions answered? See all of Partzilla’s Live Q&A sessions here.