Partzilla Live Q&A with John Talley – May 07, 2021
Partzilla Live Q&A is back after a brief hiatus with John Talley hosting another session, answering your motorcycle and ATV repair questions.
Mr. Talley sends his congratulations to the future winner of the Warn Axom winch giveaway (winner was announced May 10, 2021) before jumping into your powersports vehicle repair and maintenance inquiries.
Electrical issues were among the many topics covered in this week’s session. Check out some excerpts from Partzilla’s latest live Q&A session below, and tune into our YouTube and Facebook channels every Friday at 3pm Eastern for the next edition.
Partzilla Live Q&A Highlights – Electrical Issues
I was having issues starting my 2011 Kawasaki KLX110, so I decided to replace the carburetor, the air filter, battery, spark plug and fuel, but now it just won’t turn over. The carburetor is getting fuel and the spark plug is getting spark. Is there anything else I forgot to check?
John Talley: I’m curious, how do you know if it’s getting spark if it won’t turn over at all? It sounds to me like there’s something systemic going on. That’s probably going to be the main fuse to it. It’s a pretty simple diagram for that particular unit. As a matter of fact, I think we did a KLX110 no-start scenario. … I think it’s one main fuse, if memory serves, but it’s been about 3 or 4 years since we did that.
I’m making my 2012 Kawasaki KX450F motard/legal. If the stock stator only puts out 60 watts, would that be enough to run a lighting kit?
John Talley: 60 watts is not much. I don’t think you want to do a KDX conversion on it, if that’s even possible. But what will probably save you is to get away from the halogen and go with the LED lighting. Just make sure you don’t exceed that 60 watts and you should be able to pull it off relatively easy. LEDs are really low consumption and it should get you in the ballpark at least.
If the ground wire from the battery gets pinched by the tank and it sparks, would that burn out the CDI or Rec?
John Talley: I’m a little concerned that the battery is sparking against the fuel tank. Are you sure that’s a negative wire? Usually those don’t spark unless it’s your initial connection to the battery and it’s just sending a low voltage through. Either way, whether a wire is a ground or a positive wire, it should not be getting pinched, so it needs to be replaced or rerouted because something is wrong. But to answer your question, will that burn out the CDI or regulator-rectifier? Sure it can, especially if it’s expecting a certain amount of ground being present. Those wires have a certain diameter for a reason and you’re telling me that it’s been pinched and it’s missing some of its internal, individual conductors, then yeah. Because that would ramp up the amperage, ramp up the voltage, ramp up the current, because the resistance is going down. So yes, it could burn out your CDI or your regulator-rectifier.
My 2005 Yamaha R1 will start but only when a jumper is connected. As soon as you remove it, it shuts off. What could be the problem?
John Talley: Are you talking about you jumping the solenoid and that starts it and then it shuts off? I need some more information on where this jumper is being connected. Sounds to me like you're probably jumping the start circuit … it’s a start but then it still has to hold voltage. I would check your fuses, because you’re trying to work off a system that’s not trying to play very nice. So check your fuses. … And if you’re just jump starting it, then your battery is absolutely wasted. Well, that may or may not be true. I want to know your battery voltage, because you’re saying you jump it and then it dies. Typically if you have a completely flat battery, it’s going to drag the voltage down so low where the machine doesn’t have enough generating power, DC power, to where it will just shut off. So my bet is that your battery is junk. Measure the battery and see what kind of voltage it has.
Want to see more live repair questions answered? See all of Partzilla’s Live Q&A sessions here.