Kawasaki KLX 110 Chain & Sprocket Replacement

Continuing with our series on converting a 2006 Kawasaki KLX 110 dirt bike into a pit bike, we’re replacing the chain, and the front and rear sprockets on the motorcycle. 

At this stage we’ve already done the rims and spokes, a top-end build, and a suspension upgrade, among other projects. For this project, we’re installing a new chain and sprockets. The new chain is a Renthal unit, which is a little bit more robust than the old chain.

The new sprockets are from Sunstar (rear) and Renthal (front). For increased speed, the front sprocket is a 15-tooth instead of the old 14T. Several wear items needed to be replaced, including the shock damper cushions, swingarm guide, chain adjusters and chain guide. 

Watch the video above or read on below to learn how to do a chain and sprockets replacement on a Kawasaki KLX 110 dirt bike. 

Tools and Parts - 2006 Kawasaki KLX 110 Chain & Sprockets Change

• Ratchet and extensions
• Flathead screwdriver
• Side grinder
• Torque wrench
• Snap ring pliers
• Motion Pro chain riveting tool (optional)
• Renthal 15T front sprocket

• Sunstar 33T rear sprocket
• Kawasaki shock damper
• Kawasaki front chain guide
• BBR rear chain guide
• Kawasaki chain adjuster
• Renthal chain

Kawasaki KLX 110 Chain and Sprockets Replacement

Step 1. Disconnect the brake arm and remove the rear wheel axle nut. 

Step 2. Pry the master chain link off the chain with a flathead screwdriver, then roll or slide the chain off the bike.  

Step 3. Remove the front sprocket cover and upper chain cover, followed by the front chain guide and the rear chain guide (swingarm protector). 

Step 4. Remove the axle and the rear wheel from the bike, then remove the shock damper cushions and the rear sprocket from the wheel. 

Step 5. Use snap ring pliers to remove the circlip from the front sprocket, then remove the sprocket itself. 

Step 6. Install the new front sprocket onto the bike.

NOTE: The new front sprocket we chose from Renthal has little concaves to force dirt, mud and debris away from the chain. It also has one more tooth than the old sprocket, which makes a major change in gear ratio, the equivalent to going three or four extra teeth on the rear sprocket. 

Step 7. Reinstall the front sprocket circlip by popping it into the groove with the sharp edge facing out.

Step 8. Install the new shock damper cushions, followed by the new rear sprocket, and torque the bolts to 32 foot-pounds.

Step 9. Install the new front chain guide and rear chain guide. 

Step 10. Add a little grease to the axle, then reinstall the rear wheel, slide the axle back into place, install the new chain adjusters and reinstall the axle nut. 

Step 11. Reconnect the brake linkage, then tighten the axle nut.

Step 12. Count the links on the old chain to determine what length to cut the new chain. 

NOTE: Since we went with a slightly larger sprocket in the front, the new chain might not have been able to be cut to the same length as the old one because it might not reach, so we put the new chain on the bike in the next step to get an accurate measurement. 

Step 13. Feed the new chain through the bike, then zip tie it in place, and mark the spot where it needs to be cut. Next, remove the zip ties and the chain.

Step 14. Use a chain riveting tool or a side grinder tool to grind off the two rivet heads on the marked link, then use a screwdriver to pop them out. 

NOTE: The side grinder cutting method is not recommended for O-ring chains, because you run the risk of overheating the rubber O-ring seals. 

Step 15. Install the new chain, with the small stamp on the master link plate facing out, and the closed edge on the pin facing forward. 

Step 16. Set the slack on the chain, then torque the axle nut to 47 foot-pounds and reinstall the cotter pin to the nut. 

Step 17. Reinstall the front sprocket cover and the chain cover and you’re done.

Watch the video below to learn more about our 2006 Kawasaki KLX 110 pit bike conversion project.