Honda Goldwing Fork Seals Replacement Part 2

Welcome to part 2 of our Honda Goldwing GL1800 fork seals replacement guide. In Part 1, we covered how to remove the forks and replace the seals for the left fork.

The steps below cover the same process for the right fork, plus reinstalling both forks after the seals are replaced. Watch our Honda GL1800 Goldwing fork seal replacement video above and follow the steps below to finish the job. 

NOTE: The GL1800’s left and right forks differ slightly, so the disassembly and reassembly process is different for each.

Tools and Parts Needed – Honda Goldwing GL1800 Fork Seals Replacement

Tools

• Ratchet and extensions
• 8mm - 22mm socket set
• Metric Allen set
• 6mm extended Allen
• T-40 Torx
• 8mm - 17mm wrench set
• Screwdrivers
• Pliers

• Torque wrench
• 45mm seal driver

Parts

• Left fork seal set
• Right fork seal set
• Fork oil
• Electrical tape
• Blue threadlocker

Disassembling the Right Fork

Step 1. Loosen the 17mm fork cap bolt, then slide the fork tube down and release the 14mm lock nut from the damper rod. Remove the cap bolt, spring collar, spring seat washer and the spring from the fork assembly. Drain the old fork oil from the fork assembly.

Step 2. Remove the 6mm Allen bolt and washer from the bottom of the fork. Have a container ready to catch the remaining fork oil that drains out once the bolt is removed.

Step 3. Remove the dust seal from the top of the fork case and pry out the oil seal stopper ring, being careful not to scratch the fork tube. Pull the fork tube out from the fork case, then remove the damper rod and oil lock collar from the fork tube.

Step 4. Thoroughly clean the damper rod, spring, spring collar, fork tube and fork case. Inspect the bushing guide and bushing slider for wear and replace them if necessary.

Watch the clip below to see the right fork disassembly segment of our Honda GL1800 fork seal video.

Reassembling the Right Fork

Step 5. Reinstall the damper rod into the fork tube and the oil lock collar onto the end of the damper rod.

Step 6. Lightly lube the fork tube with fork oil, then reinstall the fork tube into the fork case. Apply a drop of blue threadlocker onto the 6mm bolt. Reinstall the bolt and washer into the bottom of the fork and torque it to 15 foot-pounds.

PRO TIP: You may have to temporarily reinstall the spring and spring collar into the fork tube and hold them down so you can tighten the bolt. Remove the spring and collar once the bolt is torqued.

Step 7. Push the fork tube into the fork case, then cover the exposed portion of the fork tube with electrical tape to protect it. Lightly lube the fork tube and tape with fork oil.

Step 8. Reinstall the bushing guide, the lower metal backup ring and the upper metal backup ring over the fork tube. Seat them all in place using a 45mm seal driver.

Step 10. Reinstall the oil seal stopper ring into its retaining groove within the top of the fork case, being careful not to scratch the fork tube.

Step 11. Install the new dust seal (included in the right fork seal set) into the top of the fork case and remove the electrical tape from the fork tube.

Step 12. Refill the fork assembly with 16 fl. oz. of fork oil. Pump the fork tube up and down a few times to remove any air from within the fork assembly. The oil level should be 5 inches below the top of the fork tube. Top off the fork oil if necessary.

Step 13. Raise up the damper rod, then reinstall the spring (with the tighter-wound end facing downward), the spring seat washer and the spring collar into the fork tube. 

Step 14. Inspect the O-ring on the 17mm fork cap bolt and replace it if necessary. Reinstall the fork cap bolt into the damper rod until it bottoms out, then tighten the damper rod lock nut against the fork cap bolt. Reinstall the fork cap bolt into the fork tube.

Watch the clip below to see the right fork reassembly segment of our Honda GL1800 fork seal video.

Reinstalling the Forks

Step 15. Reinstall the fork assemblies into the top bridge and steering stem, and set the forks so the top of each fork cap is level with the top bridge. Torque the two pinch bolts in the top bridge to 19 foot-pounds and the four pinch bolts in the steering stem to 21 foot-pounds. Next, torque the two 17mm fork cap bolts to 16 foot-pounds.

Step 16. Reinstall and reconnect the meter assembly and the meter panel, then reconnect the speaker cables.

Step 17. Reinstall the rearward half of the front fender and its mounting brackets, then reconnect the cap into the anti-dive assembly.

Step 18. Disconnect the cap from the anti-dive assembly on the left fork, and remove the rearward half of the front fender and the various mounting brackets onto the forks.

Step 19. Put the spacers/collars into the front wheel, then position the wheel between the forks and reinstall the axle from left to right until it bottoms out. Snug down the left side axle pinch bolts.

Step 20. Reinstall the axle nut, then torque it to 44 foot-pounds and the right side axle pinch bolts to 16 foot-pounds.

Step 21. Release the left side axle pinch bolts to 16 foot-pounds, then pull the left fork outward and push it inward again. Next, pull the fork out again until it’s between the innermost and outermost point to align it. Torque the left side axle pinch bolts to 16 foot-pounds. 

Step 22. Reinstall the brake calipers, the side fender panels and the forward half of the front fender and you’re done.

Watch the clip below to see the fork reinstallation segment of our Honda GL1800 fork seal video.