How to Change Honda TRX420 Ball Joints: Part 2
Welcome to part 2 of our Honda TRX420 Rancher ball joints replacement, in which we pick up from replacing the upper ball joint and move on to replacing the lower ball joint.
Watch the video above and follow the steps below to learn how to change the lower ball joint on a Honda Rancher TRX420. The steps to change the upper ball joint are covered in Part 1.
Tools and Parts Needed - Honda Rancher 420 Ball Joints Replacement
- 3/8th ratchet
- Torque wrench
- 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets
- 14mm wrench
- 5mm Allen
- Ball joint separator
NOTE: Many units use the same ball joint in the upper and lower position. However, the TRX420 has the larger ball joint as the upper ball joint installed in the upper arm. The lower ball joint is installed in the bottom of the steering knuckle. Use our Honda Rancher TRX420 front knuckle diagram to see the lower ball joint (#18) and our upper front arm diagram to see the upper ball joint (#6).
Honda Rancher 420 Lower Ball Joint Replacement
Step 1. Get the steering knuckle in a vise and remove the circlip.
Step 2. Use a 1 ¼ piece of PVC to push the ball joint out with a 22mm socket.
Step 3. Catch the edge of the ball joint using a piece of 1 and ¼ threaded pipe to drive the new ball joint in. Push it most of the way in with nothing behind the knuckle, then get a second piece of threaded pipe since the ball joint pushes about an eighth of an inch out the top for the circlip.
Step 4. Replace the circlip at the top of the ball joint.
Step 5. Get a little grease on the splines on the end of the drive shaft and push it into the case.
Step 6. Replace the upper arm by threading on the 14mm bolts and their nuts on the two pivot points. Next, thread the shock mounting bolt and nut. Torque the upper pivot bolts to 32 foot-pounds and the shock mount to 22 foot-pounds.
NOTE: Notice their orientation: the two top pivot bolts face in toward each other, the shock mount faces forward.
Step 7. Replace the hose clamp on the upper arm.
Step 8. Get the steering knuckle back in place by pushing up on it from the bottom, and thread the castle nut into place onto the upper ball joint.
Step 9. Put the tie rod back in and tighten it to hold everything steady.
Step 10. Get the lower ball joint through the steering knuckle and thread the castle nut onto the lower ball joint.
Step 11. Torque the upper and lower ball joint 17mm castle nuts to 21 foot-pounds.
NOTE: For the upper ball joint castle nut, our torque wrench didn’t fit in between the nut and the CV boot, so we used an adjustable torque wrench adapter that allows you to use a box-end wrench to reach in there and tighten the nut to the correct spec.
Step 12. Install the cotter pins in the upper and lower ball joint castle nuts, then bend the tips of the pins with a screwdriver and hammer to keep them from backing out.
PRO TIP: If the holes for the cotter pins on the bolt don’t line up with the nut, add a little more torque to them.
Step 13. Tighten the nut on the tie rod end to 40 foot-pounds and get its cotter pin into place.
Step 14. Replace the splash guard that goes behind where the brake disc will be. It’s held in place by three 5mm Allen bolts.
Step 15. Get the hub into place by first adding some grease to the center of the hub and the splines on the drive shaft, then pushing the hub into place.
Step 16. Tighten the castle nut holding the hub in place. To keep the hub from spinning, thread back on a couple of the lug nuts to protect the threads on the studs, then use a prybar leveraged against the ground. Torque it to 58 foot-pounds.
Step 17. Replace the cotter pin on the hub castle nut.
Step 18. Cut the brake caliper loose from its zip tie and bolt it back into place with its two 12mm bolts, then torque them to 22 foot-pounds.
Step 19. Bolt the brake hose clamp back into position on the upper arm.
Step 20. Replace the guard behind the caliper, and add a little blue threadlocker to the two 10mm bolts to keep them in place.
Step 21. Replace the wheel, then thread the lugs into place and tighten them. Next, lower the unit to the ground, add 47-foot-pounds of torque and you’re done.